Highlights @ Antargange: Boulders and Caves

          "Antaragange"; The name means Ganges from the deep. This mountain is considered a religious place with a perennial source of water coming from the mouth of Nandi inside the temple. The water is believed to have natural curative properties. This place is also a popular for trekking and cave exploration.
           We started our first organized trek with bmc(bangalore mountaineering club). It had been ages since the last time I went on a trek. Around Pune you have numerous forts of Shivaji and they are a delight for trekking in the monsoons. First trek to Torna Fort and was way back in 2006, first year of job and we were a group of friends all enthusiastic with no knowledge about trekking.
          The start of trek to Antaragange itself was bringing back flashes of memories from the first trek. We were a group of almost 40 people travelling in two buses, four instructors and the rest mostly amateurs in trekking. The trip started at the base of the hill with a small introduction. Our trainers from bmc were multi talented folks.

Rajesh: He was also a PADI instructor who was working full time with bmc.
Siggin: He worked at Amazon and was free lancing with bmc on weekends
Shankar: He was in the 3rd year of engineering and was free lancing with bmc on weekends
Nagesh: Sorry couldn't get his details but he was a sporty and helpful

      So why this elaborate introduction ? Because I was stunned by their passion. Most of them were balancing both their jobs and their dreams. Also they surely were the fittest people I have seen for a while and was impressed the way they handled everything along the trip.

Nature Trail

Boulder land

       
            Trek started from the base of the hill. We were split into two groups of 20. Till we reached the temple I was doing better than I had expected. But once the rocky climb started my breathing seemed to get heavier. The chocolate bars I had packed saved my day. The climb to Antargange is not that difficult, but my dizziness during the climb acted as an eye opener to my fitness ! The route uphill is beautiful, that is if you like the raw and rustic ways of nature. The mountain is full of huge boulders. They remind of  Gabbar from Sholay Movie sitting atop a rock asking - "Are oh Samba , Kitne aadmi the ?"

Temple with the healing water

The uphill trek

      

Once we reached the top we split in two groups. We started first with the Rappelling activities and the second group went on for cave exploration. So instead of jumping from one rock to another like Gabbar we would be descending a similar boulder with the help of a rope. The best part of rappelling was that you didn't have to look down. It was like going down with atleast not having to see whats below.

Yes that's ME..

                 By noon the team from cave exploration had returned and everyone joined in for lunch. Lunch was simple bisibele bhaat or masala bhaat with raita. It tasted great after the long days activity. After lazing around under the shelter of the rocks it was time to head for the cave exploration.

Cave man

               Little did we realize at that moment what we were actually heading for. The route to reach the cave itself was tricky. I would suggest the best way to explore this place is to come with someone experienced. If alone I would definitely have turned back. We realized that we had reached the entrance only when our instructor asked us to wriggle down a hole. Petrified at first of what to expect next we just had to entrust our complete faith in Shankar and Siggin. They made us perform unimaginable stunts through the rocks and crevices. " Keep your right leg here and the left almost at two hands distance." I guess I might have performed a full split. But at that moment we were trying hard to concentrate on the how to get a grip on the rocks. So we maneuvered from one opening to another. Funny part was how each time Shankar seemed to make us move through an opening we thought was a dead end. Soon we got the tip at least of descending. Sit and slide that was the trick. Getting up was definitely not at all easy and managed with everyone's help. It was a 1.5 to 2 hours of gripping excitement. Which way next, where to step next ? Thankfully we managed to come out in the light. At that moment I guessed each one of us thanked God and our saviors - Our guides that we had seen the light of the day in a single piece. No major injuries, no broken bones, and thankfully no snake or any other animal sighting. As Kungfu Panda would have said it was full of Awesomeness !!

View from the top of the cave

           The trek ended with a dramatic end. This place is infamous for it's monkey's. They can actually smell your fear. So a word of caution is to not open any food items in front of them. The monkey's had made a successful attempt to run away with a serving spoon from our lunch items. The locals and the trainers finally were able to retrieve it and we made our way back home.
           The return journey was bumpy (being seated on the last row of the bus) but memorable. It was memorable because of the people we met, the laughs, the aching muscles. Such organizations like bmc are indeed doing great work. Keeping the spirit of trekking alive as well as keeping it affordable. Check their site http://www.bmcindia.org/ for more details.
        

Rabaris, camel carts, salt desert, bugni mud huts: Welcome to Rustic and Vibrant land of Kutch !!

                                         "Kutch nahi dekha toh kuch nahi dekha"
                                   (If You haven't seen Kutch you haven't seen anything)

          The famous tag line from the Gujarat tourism advertisement may have caught everyone's attention. Once rustic land of Kutch is no longer a secluded paradise. Thanks to the campaign the land is thronging with tourists from all over India and abroad.We took a 430 kilometers trip from Vadodara to Bhuj by road. The road trip itself was a unique feast to the eye. Many things caught our attention.

1) The Rabari men with their white turban and stick tending to their cattle along the roadsides.
2) The eco-friendly camel carts plying as a means of transport for both men and goods.
3) The Jugaadh or the Chhakda: The stylish, manly three wheeler which has been designed using the engine of a Royal Enfield.
4) The women folk in their heavily embroidered  and colorful lehenga cholis. A complete contrast to the barren land.
5) The mud huts called the Bugnis where you can pay a price to experience the Kutchi culture.
5) The miles and miles of dried salt lying around the salt farms with the surrounding wind mills.
6) The migratory birds just sitting along the electric wires or having a dip in the salt pans. The humming bird, the kingfisher, the storks were commonplace.

Day 1: Bhuj
We base camped at Bhuj. Bhuj gives a small town feel. It was unfortunately the victim of the 2001 Earthquake. There are legends saying that the city was built on the tip of a snakes tale which keeps moving. Thus giving rise to regular earthquakes. The Oscar nominated movie Lagaan was also shot in this city. The city attractions are the Prag Mahal, Aina Mahal and the city Museum.

Prag Mahal @ Bhuj

Prag Mahal: It is one of the first palaces in India to be built on Gothic architecture. Now some parts of the palace is in complete ruins due to the destruction caused by the quake. It has a clock tower and some of the original works of artist Raja Ravi Verma studded in original diamonds (the Rangrasia movie is based on his life) .The main hall is the one in which the waltz scene in Lagaan has been shot. It is a beautiful palace which has borne the brunt of ill maintenance and natural disasters.

Aaina Mahal: This is the palace of Mirrors situated just next to the Prag Mahal must once have been a pride for the intricate work of Belgian and Venetian glass in Marble. Now what remains are ruins of a a past glory.

Bhuj Museum: It gives a good insight into the different tribes and culture which compromises Kutch. I just knew of the Bandhni and mirror work of Gujarat. Here I got introduced  to the fact that each tribe had its own unique embroidery.

Day 2: Dhordho Village/ White Rann/ Rann Utsav

Just situated 80 kms north of Bhuj. The road to this place is highly deserted. One needs to fill in forms before entering region due to its proximity to Pakistan. The entry to White Rann is through BSF check post. It is a expanse of salt Marshland. Nothing but miles and miles of white salt meets your eye. In some places the salt is still soggy. Wish that I had visited this place when it was a bit less commercialized. The feel of the salty air and the white sand everywhere. We reached below the sunset and had the privilege to capturing the setting Sun. As dusk set in the visibility decreased but the crowd still seemed to continue growing. It is said to be beautiful adorned on the Full Moon Night.

White Rann @ Dhordho

The settling Sun @ White Rann

Shop hopping @ Rann Utsav

Next to the White Rann was the "rann utsav". You could buy just about any handicraft of Gujarat. Be it the embroidered purses, mojaris, the mirror worked woolen shawls, the wall hangings, the bandhini worked dress materials. What caught my attention were the beautiful patch worked bed covers locally called as the Godhri's. The rann utsav also has an open for all cultural fest. Just sit under the open sky and enjoy the dance and musicals. A good cultural display and promotion of art and handiwork of the region. The day ended with a ride back to Bhuj under the clear star studded sky.





Day 3:
We ended our 70 kms south from Bhuj to Mandvi, the city of  beaches and Palaces.  The town Mandvi has a beautiful beach. Blue clear water of the Arabian Sea, less waves and calm sea. It could have been a paradise beach if the people had bothered a little about Swatch Bharat. The nice stretch had been littered with plastic cups and bottles. Sorry to say we Indians are mess makers. Wherever we go we leave behind a bit of shit behind.

Camels & Mandvi Beach

The highlight here were the camels. The ride on top of these beasts reminded me of the character "Jatayu" from the Bengali movie " Sonar Kella". I could relate completely to the distortions of his facial expressions when the camel rose up and started moving along the beach stretch.

In Mandvi was the famous Vijay Vilas Palace. The winter palace a place of architecture and beauty. The palace boasts itself of featuring in many famed Bollywood movies. The first half of the Movie " Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam" and the song from Lagaan " The Heart it feels a thousand words" all have been shot here. It is in perfect shape as compared to the palace at Bhuj. The terrace is the most beautifully architectured. The gaurd on the terrace is as old as the place and will be tell you little secrets of the palace. The celebrities who visited, where Mr. Amitabh Bacchan shot the famous liner -"Kutch nahi dekha to kuch nahi dekha". He kept humming tunes from old and new movie songs all shot at this place.

The Vijay Vilas Palace @ Mandvi

The land of Kutch has its old school charm. Takes you few years behind in time where people still live in mud huts and ride camels. Places where people haven't let go of their age old cultures of embroidery, where some people are yet to be embrace the tshirt jeans culture but still love their traditional wear. Where life is full of hardship for the common but the Maharaja's live in beautifully designed Gothic architectural palaces. It is place of contrasts, color, rustic and vibrant just waiting to be discovered and experienced.

PK Flak..over hype/ prey of religious fanaticism ?

             The most awaited movie of the year "PK" turned out to be a turn down. Not because it questioned religious beliefs of the people but it did not meet the comedy and the uniqueness standards of Raju Hirani. Though it managed few genuine jokes and also raised some relevant questions about our religious excesses. It was not flawless as his previous works. I remember watching Raju Hirani's movies multiple times and each time the movie seemed fresh. I left the theater with a feel good factor. On the contrary PK concept though a bold take was not fresh. The plot of " Oh My God" was a much better scripted version which also questioned the same views. The love triangle seemed unnecessary and the Anushka was a disappointment. As an audience her changed look drew more attention than her acting.
           I may not have liked PK as much as I would have wanted to. I applaud the director for making a movie on questioning religious superstitions and unnecessary customs which have no relevant meaning. Bravo for the risk he took. In a world (not only India) which is ready to fight, bomb, kill in the name of religion it was definitely a huge risk he took. He stepped on the wrong foot of the religious fanatics. When I started writing my blog. One of my close friends advised me write whatever you want just don't hurt the religious sentiments of anyone. I guess all this flak for PK is receiving from false religious guru's and people is because religion is a topic no one is allowed to touch. However irrelevant our customs and practices may be no one is allowed to question or rationalize it.
        When I see the so called religious guru's fool educated people with tricks and abuse the sanctity of the pupil-guru relationship. I think the director did a good work in questioning the falsity and hypocrisy of religion in today's world. Would personally like religion to be rather discussed in the open than just be a personal thing which can not be talked, rationalized or debated.