"Kutch nahi dekha toh kuch nahi dekha"
(If You haven't seen Kutch you haven't seen anything)
The famous tag line from the Gujarat tourism advertisement may have caught everyone's attention. Once rustic land of Kutch is no longer a secluded paradise. Thanks to the campaign the land is thronging with tourists from all over India and abroad.We took a 430 kilometers trip from Vadodara to Bhuj by road. The road trip itself was a unique feast to the eye. Many things caught our attention.
1) The Rabari men with their white turban and stick tending to their cattle along the roadsides.
2) The eco-friendly camel carts plying as a means of transport for both men and goods.
3) The Jugaadh or the Chhakda: The stylish, manly three wheeler which has been designed using the engine of a Royal Enfield.
4) The women folk in their heavily embroidered and colorful lehenga cholis. A complete contrast to the barren land.
5) The mud huts called the Bugnis where you can pay a price to experience the Kutchi culture.
5) The miles and miles of dried salt lying around the salt farms with the surrounding wind mills.
6) The migratory birds just sitting along the electric wires or having a dip in the salt pans. The humming bird, the kingfisher, the storks were commonplace.
Day 1: Bhuj
We base camped at Bhuj. Bhuj gives a small town feel. It was unfortunately the victim of the 2001 Earthquake. There are legends saying that the city was built on the tip of a snakes tale which keeps moving. Thus giving rise to regular earthquakes. The Oscar nominated movie Lagaan was also shot in this city. The city attractions are the Prag Mahal, Aina Mahal and the city Museum.
Prag Mahal: It is one of the first palaces in India to be built on Gothic architecture. Now some parts of the palace is in complete ruins due to the destruction caused by the quake. It has a clock tower and some of the original works of artist Raja Ravi Verma studded in original diamonds (the Rangrasia movie is based on his life) .The main hall is the one in which the waltz scene in Lagaan has been shot. It is a beautiful palace which has borne the brunt of ill maintenance and natural disasters.
Aaina Mahal: This is the palace of Mirrors situated just next to the Prag Mahal must once have been a pride for the intricate work of Belgian and Venetian glass in Marble. Now what remains are ruins of a a past glory.
Bhuj Museum: It gives a good insight into the different tribes and culture which compromises Kutch. I just knew of the Bandhni and mirror work of Gujarat. Here I got introduced to the fact that each tribe had its own unique embroidery.
Day 2: Dhordho Village/ White Rann/ Rann Utsav
Just situated 80 kms north of Bhuj. The road to this place is highly deserted. One needs to fill in forms before entering region due to its proximity to Pakistan. The entry to White Rann is through BSF check post. It is a expanse of salt Marshland. Nothing but miles and miles of white salt meets your eye. In some places the salt is still soggy. Wish that I had visited this place when it was a bit less commercialized. The feel of the salty air and the white sand everywhere. We reached below the sunset and had the privilege to capturing the setting Sun. As dusk set in the visibility decreased but the crowd still seemed to continue growing. It is said to be beautiful adorned on the Full Moon Night.
Next to the White Rann was the "rann utsav". You could buy just about any handicraft of Gujarat. Be it the embroidered purses, mojaris, the mirror worked woolen shawls, the wall hangings, the bandhini worked dress materials. What caught my attention were the beautiful patch worked bed covers locally called as the Godhri's. The rann utsav also has an open for all cultural fest. Just sit under the open sky and enjoy the dance and musicals. A good cultural display and promotion of art and handiwork of the region. The day ended with a ride back to Bhuj under the clear star studded sky.
Day 3:
We ended our 70 kms south from Bhuj to Mandvi, the city of beaches and Palaces. The town Mandvi has a beautiful beach. Blue clear water of the Arabian Sea, less waves and calm sea. It could have been a paradise beach if the people had bothered a little about Swatch Bharat. The nice stretch had been littered with plastic cups and bottles. Sorry to say we Indians are mess makers. Wherever we go we leave behind a bit of shit behind.
The highlight here were the camels. The ride on top of these beasts reminded me of the character "Jatayu" from the Bengali movie " Sonar Kella". I could relate completely to the distortions of his facial expressions when the camel rose up and started moving along the beach stretch.
In Mandvi was the famous Vijay Vilas Palace. The winter palace a place of architecture and beauty. The palace boasts itself of featuring in many famed Bollywood movies. The first half of the Movie " Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam" and the song from Lagaan " The Heart it feels a thousand words" all have been shot here. It is in perfect shape as compared to the palace at Bhuj. The terrace is the most beautifully architectured. The gaurd on the terrace is as old as the place and will be tell you little secrets of the palace. The celebrities who visited, where Mr. Amitabh Bacchan shot the famous liner -"Kutch nahi dekha to kuch nahi dekha". He kept humming tunes from old and new movie songs all shot at this place.
The land of Kutch has its old school charm. Takes you few years behind in time where people still live in mud huts and ride camels. Places where people haven't let go of their age old cultures of embroidery, where some people are yet to be embrace the tshirt jeans culture but still love their traditional wear. Where life is full of hardship for the common but the Maharaja's live in beautifully designed Gothic architectural palaces. It is place of contrasts, color, rustic and vibrant just waiting to be discovered and experienced.
(If You haven't seen Kutch you haven't seen anything)
The famous tag line from the Gujarat tourism advertisement may have caught everyone's attention. Once rustic land of Kutch is no longer a secluded paradise. Thanks to the campaign the land is thronging with tourists from all over India and abroad.We took a 430 kilometers trip from Vadodara to Bhuj by road. The road trip itself was a unique feast to the eye. Many things caught our attention.
1) The Rabari men with their white turban and stick tending to their cattle along the roadsides.
2) The eco-friendly camel carts plying as a means of transport for both men and goods.
3) The Jugaadh or the Chhakda: The stylish, manly three wheeler which has been designed using the engine of a Royal Enfield.
4) The women folk in their heavily embroidered and colorful lehenga cholis. A complete contrast to the barren land.
5) The mud huts called the Bugnis where you can pay a price to experience the Kutchi culture.
5) The miles and miles of dried salt lying around the salt farms with the surrounding wind mills.
6) The migratory birds just sitting along the electric wires or having a dip in the salt pans. The humming bird, the kingfisher, the storks were commonplace.
Day 1: Bhuj
We base camped at Bhuj. Bhuj gives a small town feel. It was unfortunately the victim of the 2001 Earthquake. There are legends saying that the city was built on the tip of a snakes tale which keeps moving. Thus giving rise to regular earthquakes. The Oscar nominated movie Lagaan was also shot in this city. The city attractions are the Prag Mahal, Aina Mahal and the city Museum.
 |
| Prag Mahal @ Bhuj |
Aaina Mahal: This is the palace of Mirrors situated just next to the Prag Mahal must once have been a pride for the intricate work of Belgian and Venetian glass in Marble. Now what remains are ruins of a a past glory.
Bhuj Museum: It gives a good insight into the different tribes and culture which compromises Kutch. I just knew of the Bandhni and mirror work of Gujarat. Here I got introduced to the fact that each tribe had its own unique embroidery.
Day 2: Dhordho Village/ White Rann/ Rann Utsav
Just situated 80 kms north of Bhuj. The road to this place is highly deserted. One needs to fill in forms before entering region due to its proximity to Pakistan. The entry to White Rann is through BSF check post. It is a expanse of salt Marshland. Nothing but miles and miles of white salt meets your eye. In some places the salt is still soggy. Wish that I had visited this place when it was a bit less commercialized. The feel of the salty air and the white sand everywhere. We reached below the sunset and had the privilege to capturing the setting Sun. As dusk set in the visibility decreased but the crowd still seemed to continue growing. It is said to be beautiful adorned on the Full Moon Night.
 |
| White Rann @ Dhordho |
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| The settling Sun @ White Rann |
 |
| Shop hopping @ Rann Utsav |
Next to the White Rann was the "rann utsav". You could buy just about any handicraft of Gujarat. Be it the embroidered purses, mojaris, the mirror worked woolen shawls, the wall hangings, the bandhini worked dress materials. What caught my attention were the beautiful patch worked bed covers locally called as the Godhri's. The rann utsav also has an open for all cultural fest. Just sit under the open sky and enjoy the dance and musicals. A good cultural display and promotion of art and handiwork of the region. The day ended with a ride back to Bhuj under the clear star studded sky.
Day 3:
We ended our 70 kms south from Bhuj to Mandvi, the city of beaches and Palaces. The town Mandvi has a beautiful beach. Blue clear water of the Arabian Sea, less waves and calm sea. It could have been a paradise beach if the people had bothered a little about Swatch Bharat. The nice stretch had been littered with plastic cups and bottles. Sorry to say we Indians are mess makers. Wherever we go we leave behind a bit of shit behind.
 |
| Camels & Mandvi Beach |
In Mandvi was the famous Vijay Vilas Palace. The winter palace a place of architecture and beauty. The palace boasts itself of featuring in many famed Bollywood movies. The first half of the Movie " Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam" and the song from Lagaan " The Heart it feels a thousand words" all have been shot here. It is in perfect shape as compared to the palace at Bhuj. The terrace is the most beautifully architectured. The gaurd on the terrace is as old as the place and will be tell you little secrets of the palace. The celebrities who visited, where Mr. Amitabh Bacchan shot the famous liner -"Kutch nahi dekha to kuch nahi dekha". He kept humming tunes from old and new movie songs all shot at this place.
 |
| The Vijay Vilas Palace @ Mandvi |
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